In today’s industrial environment, qvevri, a vessel invented in ancient cultural civilisation, enables us to produce wine in a way that allows us to remain fully harmonised with nature, to produce wine- without artificial interferences. The unique shape of qvevri enables it to maintain its balance inside the ground and facilitates natural filtration and temperature stability. In wine production this clay vessel creates one whole, harmonious cycle. In recent decades, Georgian qvevri acquired a new life in the wineries of various countries all over the world. Most of these wineries are united by a common philosophy of wine production, whose main principle is the nature and desire to be tightly connected with it.

Ludwig Knoll | Winery Wein am Stein
Franken/Germany

“Wein am Stein” is located in the wine region of Franken, the largest part of the winery is built along the beautiful banks of Main River. For wine-lovers, this region is famous for Bocksbeutel- (a shape of a wine bottle) and Silvaner grape variety. It was while attending professor R. Göbel’s course- strategic planning, at Geisenheim University, when I first heard of Wein am Stein. The main core of the course was architectural styles of a winery.

Wein am Stein is a winery that features a building that is notable for its architectural style. The cellar thoroughly reflects the winery’s philosophy, which is based on principles of biodynamics, this very philosophy is, somewhat, expressed with Georgian qvevries as well.

The history of Wein am Stein is over 125 years old. Since 1990 the driving force behind it has been Ludwig Knoll, who together with his wife Sandra, cultivates a 40ha vineyard using the principles of biodynamics, constantly striving towards new challenges and innovations.

He doesn’t forget the past and tries to create types of wine in which individualism and harmony with nature can be felt. Traditional Georgian wine vessels, qvevries, that are buried (planted) in his cellar help him achieve this.

Q: Mr. Knoll, how did a Georgian qvevri end up in your cellar?

A: The idea of making wine in a qvevri is closely linked with my period of studies at the Geisenheim University in 1988, whilst a student in the faculty of winemaking, I happened to visit Georgia. The culture of this beautiful country inspired me to make wine in a qvevri. I would like to thank Hans Peter Schaub, as it is with his help that now there are five qvevries in our cellar, each of them is of a 600L capacity.

We made wine in a qvevri for the first time in 2015, which despite the extremely hot year, turned out to be very impressive. Phenolic compounds added freshness and zest to the wine of extended maceration; also, such grape varieties as Silvaner and Traminer which are characterised with reduced levels of acidity, gave the wine a good texture with on-pomace fermentation as well. Sauvignon Blanc and Muscatella-qvevri wine made from these varieties are also unique and complex, characterised with pleasant aromas of spices and herbs.

Q: What is your own method of making qvevri wine?

A: To prevent oxidation, we place stalkless grapes into a CO2 enriched qvevri. Wine in qvevri tends to ferment spontaneously. Contrary to the Georgian method, we do not punch down the pomace cap, it stays afloat on the surface of the liquid, therefore, the wine is very mild and low tannin. After fermentation, we seal qvevries with wax and glass discs, as for the empty qvevries we wash them with hot water and a bit of citric acid.

Q: What is exceptional about working with qvevri wine and what kind of difficulties can one face in the process?

A: In terms of biodynamics, it is a unique method when both the vessel and the process which is taking place inside it are closely linked to the soil. Wine made in qvevri is fascinating since it has well defined aromas. This is a method which, during the process of winemaking, involves considerable expense, intensive work, and requires particular attention in terms of hygiene.

In Ludwig Knoll’s opinion, qvevri wine consumers are the people that are keen to discover new, interesting, and unique flavours. He adds that demand on qvevri wine is increasing annually, particularly in high end gastronomy. The average price of “Wein am Stein’s” qvevri wine is 60 euros.

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